Every Mile A Story
Switzerland

Switzerland · 14 – 23 May 2026

Switzerland

The Alpine Diary & The Long Way Home

10 daysSwitzerland · Germany · Netherlands · Belgium · FranceFamily
Begin

✦ Quick facts ✦

From Zürich to Paris, the long way round.

Country
Switzerland
Region
Switzerland · Germany · Netherlands · Belgium · France
Dates
14 – 23 May 2026
Duration
10 days
Companion
Family
Weather
11 – 23 °C · crisp Alpine air, warmer in the lowlands
Best season
May – September
Cost
CHF 320 / day in Switzerland · €180 / day onwards
Pace
Slow mornings, long afternoons, a great deal of driving
Best memory
The rotating cable car breaking through cloud at Titlis.

✦ Chapter zero ✦

Before the journey

The plans, the assumptions, and the small preparations that travel never quite asks you to keep.

I

Planning

Months of mapping rail passes, lake ferries and mountain railways into a Swiss loop — then a quieter drive that worked its way north through Germany and the Low Countries before turning west into Paris.

II

Expectations

Postcards. Punctual trains. A landscape so composed it felt staged. Switzerland delivered all of that; what surprised us was how naturally the rest of Europe followed on.

III

Research

Saved every Yash Chopra frame, read Slow Travel Switzerland end to end, and shortlisted viewpoints by elevation rather than fame. For the drive home, a single rule: at least one proper stop per country.

IV

Preparation

Layers for unpredictable mountain weather, one camera, an empty notebook, and a willingness to walk further than the map suggested.

Chapter by chapter

Day by day

The trip as it happened, in order — chapters of field notes, with photographs, pull quotes and a ledger at the end of each day.

Chapter One · Zürich

Day 01

14 May 2026

Day 1

From the Airport to the Summit of Uetliberg

After an overnight passage via Abu Dhabi, a long-awaited journey across the Alps begins — with crisp air, turquoise water, and a city laid out in miniature below.

Our Swiss adventure officially began on the 14th of May, 2026 — the day we landed at Zürich Airport. The crisp Alpine air, the efficient transport, the spotless surroundings: all of it conspired immediately to suggest we had arrived somewhere quietly extraordinary.

Arrival in Zürich
The first crisp breath of Alpine air.

We landed around midday and moved through immigration with the brisk ease that Zürich Airport is known for. The Radisson Hotel Zürich Airport in Rümlang would be our shelter for the night.

Quiet streets around Rümlang
The walk from the hotel into the day.

A short journey brought us to Zürich Hauptbahnhof — the grand central station and one of the busiest transport hubs in all of Europe. From there, we walked towards Bürkliplatz, where the turquoise waters of Lake Zürich stretched into the distance.

Zürich Hauptbahnhof and the city centre
Towards Bürkliplatz.
Turquoise edge of Lake Zürich
Bürkliplatz, where the lake begins.

The afternoon’s highlight was a leisurely ferry ride across Lake Zürich. With snow-capped peaks faintly visible on the far horizon, it felt like the perfect introduction to the country.

Ferry on Lake Zürich
A slow afternoon on the water.
Lake views from the ferry
Snow on the far horizon.

Following our time on the water, we returned through the city and boarded a train towards Uetliberg — Zürich’s own mountain. From the summit, the city appeared like a miniature, surrounded by sparkling lakes and the Alps forming a dramatic backdrop behind. We walked the long way back down through the woods, took a tram into town and finished the evening with dinner in Oberglatt before retiring to Rümlang.

Climbing to the Uetliberg summit
The train to Zürich’s own mountain.
Panorama from the Uetliberg tower
The city laid out in miniature.

It felt like the perfect introduction to Switzerland — the kind of moment that photographs struggle to capture.

— The ledger —
Day 1 at a glance
Date14 May 2026
On footapprox. 7 km
By rail & watertrain, tram, bus & ferry
LodgingRadisson, Rümlang
  • Arrival in Switzerland via Zürich Airport
  • First taste of the Zürich city centre
  • Bürkliplatz and the shores of Lake Zürich
  • A scenic ferry ride across the lake
  • Panoramic views from the Aussichtsturm Uetliberg
  • Evening wanderings around Rümlang & Oberglatt
~ ~ ~

Chapter Two · Bernese Oberland

Day 02

15 May 2026

Day 2

Into Grindelwald & Onward to Interlaken

A drive south brings emerald meadows, the north face of the Eiger and the cinematic Höhematte park at the foot of the Jungfrau.

We left the Radisson Hotel Zürich Airport shortly before 9 a.m., pointing south towards the Bernese Oberland. As Zürich slipped behind us, the landscape did what Switzerland does best — urban edges giving way to rolling meadows, traditional chalets, clear rivers, and ever taller peaks on the horizon.

Leaving Zürich on the road south
Pointing south, just after nine.
Rolling meadows on the way to the Bernese Oberland
Urban edges giving way to meadow.

Arriving at Grindelwald Grund, we understood at once why this village is counted among Switzerland’s crown jewels. Set beneath the imposing north face of the Eiger, Grindelwald offered a breathtaking arrangement — alpine meadows, wooden chalets, dramatic cliffs, and snow-covered summits, all assembled as if by a careful hand.

First sight of Grindelwald valley
The valley opens.
Chalets beneath the Eiger
Chalets in the lap of the cliff.
North face of the Eiger from Grindelwald Grund
The north face of the Eiger.
Alpine meadows at Grindelwald
Wildflowers, and a careful hand.
Snow-covered summits above the village
Summits above the village.
Wandering Grindelwald
A village arranged as if staged.

Later in the afternoon we boarded a short but memorable funicular railway — one of Switzerland’s most charming forms of mountain transportation. Even a brief mountain railway becomes unforgettable when the scenery is at this scale.

Funicular railway above Grindelwald
The funicular, at half-pace.
View from the funicular
A short ride, an unforgettable scale.

As the day wore on we took the bus to Interlaken — Switzerland’s adventure capital — set between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. One of our key stops was the Yash Chopra Statue at Höhematte, a landmark that holds particular significance for Indian travellers. Standing beside it felt like revisiting countless beloved scenes at once. By evening we were back on the road to Rümlang.

Höhematte park in Interlaken
Höhematte · the park at the foot of the Jungfrau.
Yash Chopra Statue, Interlaken
Beside the Yash Chopra Statue — countless beloved scenes at once.

For travellers who dream of the authentic Swiss Alps, Grindelwald delivers exactly that — and quietly more.

— The ledger —
Day 2 at a glance
Date15 May 2026
By roadRümlang → Grindelwald → Interlaken → Rümlang
By funiculara short, scenic loop
RegionBernese Oberland
  • Scenic drive from Zürich to Grindelwald
  • Views of the Eiger and the Bernese Alps
  • A charming funicular railway experience
  • Evening visit to Interlaken & Höhematte
  • A stop at the Yash Chopra Statue
~ ~ ~

Chapter Three · Engelberg & Lucerne

Day 03

16 May 2026

Day 3

Mount Titlis in the Morning, Lucerne by Afternoon

A rotating cable car climbs to 3,020 metres of glacier light; by afternoon, a medieval bridge and a sleeping lion in stone.

We left Rümlang shortly after breakfast and drove the eighty-odd kilometres south to Engelberg, the base village for Mount Titlis. The road climbed gently the whole way, and by the time the village came into view the air had thinned and sharpened, the way it does only at altitude.

On the road south
Pointing south, towards Engelberg.
Altitude, gathering
Altitude, gathering.

From the base station, we boarded the cable car for the long ride up. The final stretch — on the rotating Titlis Rotair — broke through cloud into a world of blinding white. At 3,020 metres, the country finally stopped translating itself: there was just glacier, sky, and the slow, deliberate turn of the cabin. We walked the Cliff Walk, the highest suspension bridge in Europe, equal parts exhilarating and absurd.

Engelberg base station
Engelberg base station.
Climbing through cloud
Climbing through cloud.
Mount Titlis summit
Three thousand metres, and counting.

On the way down we paused at Trübsee, the turquoise alpine lake that sits between Engelberg and the glacier. From the right angle the water looked weightless, as if the world had briefly forgotten about gravity.

Trübsee on the descent
Trübsee · weightless turquoise on the descent.

By mid-afternoon we were on the bus to Lucerne, a city that arrived gently — first as a glimpse of the Reuss river, then as a row of painted facades and finally as the Kapellbrücke, Europe’s oldest covered wooden bridge, stretched over the water like a long sentence. We walked the old town, paused beside the painted houses of Weinmarkt, and made our way to the Lion Monument: carved into a quiet cliff face, the dying lion is at once tender and unbearable. By dusk we were back on the road to Rümlang.

Lucerne arriving gently
Lucerne, arriving gently.
Kapellbrücke over the Reuss
Kapellbrücke · the long sentence over the Reuss.
Inside the covered bridge
Through the covered bridge.
The Lion Monument
The Lion Monument · tender, unbearable.
Old town, late afternoon
Old town, late afternoon.

Some cities ask to be photographed. Lucerne asked, instead, to be sat with.

— The ledger —
Day 3 at a glance
Date16 May 2026
By roadRümlang → Engelberg → Lucerne → Rümlang (approx. 220 km)
Elevation3,020 m at Klein Titlis
BridgeCliff Walk · highest in Europe
LodgingRadisson, Rümlang
  • Cable car and rotating Rotair to Mount Titlis
  • Walking the Cliff Walk above the glacier
  • Trübsee on the descent
  • Kapellbrücke and the painted old town of Lucerne
  • The Lion Monument
~ ~ ~

Chapter Four · Schaffhausen & the Road North

Day 04

17 May 2026

Day 4

Goodbye Switzerland — by way of the Rhine Falls

A final Swiss morning at Europe’s largest waterfall, a long drive through the Black Forest, and a first night in Frankfurt.

Our last Swiss morning belonged to the Rhine Falls. We left the hotel by mid-morning and drove forty-odd kilometres north to Neuhausen am Rheinfall, where the river makes its loudest argument for itself. From the platforms below Schloss Laufen, the water arrives in a continuous, low thunder; up close you can feel the spray before you hear it.

Towards the Rhine Falls
Towards Neuhausen am Rheinfall.
First sight of the Rheinfall
The river’s loudest argument.
Schloss Laufen above the falls
Schloss Laufen, above the spray.
Lower platform of the Rheinfall
Closer than the lens prefers.
Last Swiss morning
A last Swiss morning.

By late morning we were back in the car, heading for the German border. The road climbed gently into the Black Forest, dense and quiet — a different kind of green from the meadows we had been used to. We stopped in the Schluchsee area for lunch and a long walk by the water, then settled in for the long northbound drive.

Into the Black Forest
Into the Schwarzwald.
Schluchsee in afternoon light
Schluchsee, mid-afternoon.
Black Forest lake
A different kind of green.
Lakeside walk
A long walk by the water.
Dense forest
Dense, quiet trees.
Late forest light
Late forest light.

The light was going by the time Frankfurt’s skyline appeared. We crossed the Main, checked into our hotel in Sachsenhausen, and walked out for a late dinner along the river. Switzerland felt very close still; Germany, distinctly its own country, had begun.

Crossing into Frankfurt
Across the Main.
Sachsenhausen at dusk
Sachsenhausen, by dusk.
Lights along the Main
Lights along the river.
Late dinner in Frankfurt
A late dinner, the river close.
Frankfurt skyline
Frankfurt skyline, end of day.

You can leave Switzerland slowly. The country lets you.

— The ledger —
Day 4 at a glance
Date17 May 2026
By roadRümlang → Rheinfall → Black Forest → Frankfurt (approx. 480 km)
Border crossedSwitzerland → Germany
LodgingSachsenhausen, Frankfurt
  • A last Swiss morning at the Rhine Falls
  • Crossing into Germany at the border
  • A long walk in the Black Forest
  • Arriving in Frankfurt by dusk
~ ~ ~

Chapter Five · Cologne & the Drive into the Netherlands

Day 05

18 May 2026

Day 5

A Cathedral in Cologne, an Evening in the Lowlands

A morning beneath the spires of the Kölner Dom, then a slow drive across the Lower Rhine and into the dunes of the Dutch coast.

We left Frankfurt around midday and arrived in Cologne in time for a long, slow lunch in the shadow of the cathedral. The Kölner Dom does what photographs cannot quite manage — it sneaks up on you, ungainly and impossibly tall, then refuses to apologise for any of it.

On the road to Cologne
On the road to Cologne.
First sight of the Dom
First sight of the Dom.
Kölner Dom from below
Kölner Dom · taller than the lens, every time.
Beneath the spires
Beneath the spires.

We walked along the Rhine for a while, watched the river barges and let the afternoon stretch. By late afternoon we were back on the road, heading west through Krefeld and across the Dutch border. The landscape flattened almost in protest of the morning — green, level, an apologetic horizon.

Walking the Rhine
Walking the Rhine.
Barges on the Rhine
River barges, mid-afternoon.
Crossing through Krefeld
Through Krefeld, heading west.
The Lower Rhine
The Lower Rhine flattening out.

It was evening by the time we crossed into the Netherlands and looped past Schiphol towards Noordwijk on the coast. The hotel was set among low dunes and quiet villas. We walked out to the sea after dark, took our shoes off briefly, and called it a day.

Into the Netherlands
Into the Netherlands.
An apologetic horizon
An apologetic horizon.
Noordwijk dunes
Noordwijk · low dunes, long horizon.
Quiet sea after dark
A quiet sea, after dark.

The Dom sneaks up on you, then refuses to apologise for any of it.

— The ledger —
Day 5 at a glance
Date18 May 2026
By roadFrankfurt → Cologne → Noordwijk (approx. 450 km)
Border crossedGermany → Netherlands
LodgingNoordwijk-aan-Zee
  • A long lunch beneath the Kölner Dom
  • Walking the Rhine in Cologne
  • Crossing into the Netherlands
  • A dark, quiet beach at Noordwijk
~ ~ ~

Chapter Six · The Netherlands

Day 06

19 May 2026

Day 6

Windmills at Zaanse Schans, Canals in Amsterdam

A morning at the working windmills of Zaanse Schans, then a full afternoon walking the canal belt of Amsterdam.

We drove inland after breakfast, leaving the coast behind, and reached Zaanse Schans before mid-morning. The working windmills along the Zaan turned with an unhurried patience that felt distinctly Dutch — large, deliberate, faintly theatrical. We watched paint and oil and mustard being made the slow way, and bought a tin of stroopwafels for the road.

Zaanse Schans before the crowds
Zaanse Schans · before the crowds.
A working windmill turning slow
A working windmill turning slow.
Painted timber, wide sky
Painted timber, wide skies.
Mustard, paint, oil
Made the slow way.
Stroopwafels for the road
Stroopwafels for the road.
Leaving Zaanse Schans
Leaving Zaanse Schans.

By early afternoon we were in Amsterdam. We parked once and walked the rest. The canal belt unspooled in concentric arcs — Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht, Prinsengracht — each curve a slightly different version of the same idea. The bicycles were everywhere, and yet somehow nowhere near us; the city had a way of moving around itself without ever feeling crowded.

First glimpse of the canal belt
First glimpse of the canal belt.
Singel in concentric arcs
Singel · the first arc.
Herengracht
Herengracht.
Bicycles by a canal
Everywhere, and yet never in the way.
A bridge with intent
A bridge, with intent.
Keizersgracht
Keizersgracht.
Prinsengracht in late afternoon
Prinsengracht, late afternoon.

We crossed the river by ferry to the north bank for a coffee, came back, then spent the late afternoon in the Jordaan, where the houses lean towards the canals as if conspiring. By the time we returned to the car the city was lighting up gently, and we drove back to Noordwijk under a sky that refused to go fully dark.

Coffee on the north bank
Coffee on the north bank.
Across the IJ
Across the IJ.
Jordaan facades
Jordaan · leaning towards the canals.
Quiet street in late light
Quiet streets, late light.
Map of the day
Map of the day.
Heading back to Noordwijk
Heading back to Noordwijk.

Amsterdam has a way of moving around itself — busy, certainly, but never quite crowded.

— The ledger —
Day 6 at a glance
Date19 May 2026
On footapprox. 12 km in Amsterdam
HighlightZaanse Schans windmills
LodgingNoordwijk-aan-Zee
  • Working windmills at Zaanse Schans
  • Walking the Amsterdam canal belt
  • A coffee on the northern bank
  • The Jordaan in late afternoon
~ ~ ~

Chapter Seven · Belgium & the Road to France

Day 07

20 May 2026

Day 7

Brussels, Then a Long Drive into Paris

A morning beneath the Atomium and a slow lunch in the Grand Place, then a four-hour drive south into the lights of Paris.

We left Noordwijk early and drove south through the Netherlands and into Belgium. By late morning Brussels had announced itself with the strange, gleaming geometry of the Atomium — nine steel spheres held in mid-air, equal parts physics and ambition.

First sight of the Atomium
First sight of the Atomium.
Atomium spheres in mid-air
Steel spheres held in mid-air.
Heysel plateau
The Heysel plateau.
Atomium close up
Equal parts physics and ambition.
Leaving the Atomium
Leaving the Atomium.

In the city centre we walked from Place Sainte-Catherine down to the Grand Place, ate moules-frites the way you’re told to, and gave the chocolate shops more time than the cathedral. Brussels has a quiet confidence; it does not perform for you.

Place Sainte-Catherine
Place Sainte-Catherine, mid-morning.
Grand Place facades
Grand Place · gilded, quiet, generous.
Brussels arches
Brussels arches.
Moules-frites
Moules-frites, the right way.
Brussels chocolate shop
More time than the cathedral.
Late lunch crowd
Late lunch, slow afternoon.

By late afternoon we were back on the autoroute, heading south. The drive into France took the rest of the day — flat, fast, and uneventful in the best way. We reached our hotel near Charles de Gaulle just before nightfall, dropped bags, and took the train into central Paris. The first sight of the Seine after dark is a thing you should give yourself at least once.

On the autoroute south
On the autoroute south.
Approaching Charles de Gaulle
Approaching CDG.
RER into central Paris
Train into central Paris.
First sight of the Seine after dark
The Seine, after dark.
Paris bridges at night
Bridges, at night.
Paris lit up
Paris, lit up.

Brussels does not perform for you. It just is, generously.

— The ledger —
Day 7 at a glance
Date20 May 2026
By roadNoordwijk → Brussels → Paris CDG (approx. 510 km)
Borders crossedNetherlands → Belgium → France
LodgingRoissy-en-France, near CDG
  • The Atomium and the Heysel plateau
  • Moules-frites near the Grand Place
  • Crossing into France
  • First sight of Paris after dark
~ ~ ~

Chapter Eight · Paris

Day 08

21 May 2026

Day 8

A Full Day in Paris

Notre-Dame from the Île de la Cité, a long lunch by the river, and the Eiffel Tower from Trocadéro at golden hour.

We took the train into central Paris and walked from the Châtelet to the Île de la Cité. Notre-Dame, even in its careful rebuilding, holds the bank of the river the way only Notre-Dame can. We stood at the parvis for a long while, then crossed back over the Seine and let the morning unfold on its own time.

Towards the Île de la Cité
Towards the Île de la Cité.
Notre-Dame holding the bank
Notre-Dame · holding the bank.
Standing at the parvis
Standing at the parvis.
Stone and scaffolding
Stone and scaffolding, still.
In front of the cathedral
A long while in front of the cathedral.
Crossing the Seine
Crossing the Seine.
Pont Neuf
Pont Neuf.
Left Bank morning
Left Bank morning.

Lunch was on a quiet side street near the Louvre — a small place, a long carafe of water, an unrushed waiter. From there we walked along the river to the Pont de l’Alma, then up the hill to Trocadéro for the inevitable, irresistible first sight of the Eiffel Tower.

Near the Louvre
A side street near the Louvre.
A small place for lunch
A small place, a long carafe.
An unrushed waiter
An unrushed waiter.
Walking towards the river
Walking towards the river.
Along the Seine
Along the Seine.
Pont de l’Alma
Pont de l’Alma.
Up the hill to Trocadéro
Up the hill to Trocadéro.
First sight from Trocadéro
The first, inevitable sight.
Eiffel Tower from Trocadéro
The Eiffel Tower from Trocadéro · irresistible.

We spent the late afternoon between the Champ de Mars and the bridges, watching the tower do what it does best — quietly attract everyone, then quietly let them go. By evening we were back on the RER, watching the city pass in window frames, on our way back to the hotel.

Eiffel at golden hour
From Trocadéro, half past six.
Champ de Mars
Champ de Mars.
Between the bridges
Between the bridges.
Late light on the Seine
Late light on the Seine.
Lamps coming on
Lamps, coming on.
Paris quietly
Paris, quietly.
RER home
RER home.
City in window frames
The city, in window frames.

The Eiffel Tower quietly attracts everyone, then quietly lets them go.

— The ledger —
Day 8 at a glance
Date21 May 2026
On footapprox. 14 km across central Paris
HighlightEiffel Tower at golden hour
LodgingRoissy-en-France, near CDG
  • Notre-Dame from the Île de la Cité
  • A long lunch near the Louvre
  • The Eiffel Tower from Trocadéro
  • A slow walk along the Seine
~ ~ ~

Chapter Nine · Departure

Day 09

22 May 2026

Day 9

A Last Morning, Then the Long Flight Home

A train into the French countryside, a last coffee, and the long flight back to Mumbai — with more notebook than camera left to fill.

We woke without an alarm and let the last morning unfold on its own time. A coffee at the hotel, an unhurried breakfast, and a short train ride that took us briefly north of Paris before turning back towards the airport.

A last morning, slowly
A last morning, slowly.
Coffee at the hotel
Coffee at the hotel.
A short train north of Paris
A short train north of Paris.
French countryside from the train
A last view of the countryside.
Back towards the airport
Back towards the airport.

By midday we were at Charles de Gaulle, checking bags and trying — with limited success — to count the cities the past ten days had passed through.

Charles de Gaulle terminal
Charles de Gaulle.
Checking bags at CDG
Checking bags.
Counting cities
Counting cities, with limited success.
One last terminal coffee
One last terminal coffee.
At the gate
At the gate.

The flight back to Mumbai was long and unremarkable, which is the best thing a long flight can be. Somewhere over the continent I opened the notebook and began the first draft of the story you are reading now. We landed in the late afternoon, drove through the familiar humid evening, and were home before dark.

Above the continent
Above the continent.
Clouds from the air
The country, folded into clouds.
Long unremarkable hours
Long, unremarkable hours.
Landing in Mumbai
Landing in Mumbai.
Home before midnight
Home, before midnight.

A long flight is at its best when there is nothing to say about it.

— The ledger —
Day 9 at a glance
Date22 May 2026
FlightCDG → BOM
Notebook52 pages filled
LodgingHome, by nightfall
  • A last quiet morning near Paris
  • A long flight back to Mumbai
  • The familiar humid drive home
~ ~ ~

Chapter Ten · After

Day 10

23 May 2026

Day 10

Home

A first morning back, the kettle on, the notebook open, and a country folded carefully into pages.

The first morning back, we slept past the alarm. The light through the window was Indian light again — heavier, kinder, slower across the floor — and for a long while we just sat with it.

I opened the notebook and laid out the past ten days: Zürich, Grindelwald, Interlaken, Engelberg, Lucerne, Schaffhausen, Frankfurt, Cologne, Noordwijk, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris. Cities like a long inventory. Then I closed it again, because there are some accounts that don’t need to be settled in a hurry.

A notebook and coffee on a kitchen table
A kitchen table at 2 a.m.

A journey is not over when you land. It is over, perhaps, somewhere around the third or fourth morning at home, when the routine quietly takes over again — and what you brought back, if anything, settles in for the long stay.

Ten days. A continent, quietly folded into a notebook.

— The ledger —
Day 10 at a glance
Date23 May 2026
Cities passed through12, give or take
Countries5
LodgingHome
  • A long sleep in familiar light
  • A first long look at the notebook
  • The slow return to routine
~ ~ ~

✦ Moments to remember ✦

Small things, remembered.

The funny incidents, the unexpected kindnesses, the things a trip keeps even after the photographs have been filed away.

01

A bench above Zürich

A stranger pointed silently at the Alps when we asked how to get to the tower. We did not need words. We made it.

02

The Yash Chopra moment

Standing beside the statue in Interlaken, an entire generation of Indian cinema seemed to play in the breeze. We were not the only ones quietly humming.

03

A funicular at half-pace

A toddler in the next seat counted every wildflower aloud. By the top there were eighty-seven, give or take.

04

Cloud, then glacier

The Titlis Rotair turned us once through cloud and again into blinding white. Nobody in the cabin spoke for the last minute of the ride.

05

Bicycles in Amsterdam

A woman cycled past with a toddler in front, a baby in back, and a bouquet of tulips in her teeth. The city, briefly, made perfect sense.

06

First sight of the Eiffel

From Trocadéro, at half past six, the tower turned itself on. A small cheer went up from a group beside us, and nobody pretended not to have made the sound too.

Photography

Photographs from Switzerland

A selection from the road — captured slowly, edited even slower.

✦ On film ✦

A few things moved.

Ten days, five countries

A short reel from the road — Zürich, Titlis, Cologne, Amsterdam, Paris.

✦ Route map ✦

The trip, drawn out.

Charting the route…

✦ A small guide ✦

Where to stay, eat & look.

The short list of places and tips that made this journey easier — kept honest, not exhaustive.

Where to stay

  • Radisson Hotel Zürich Airport, Rümlang

    A quiet, reliable base for a Swiss loop.

  • A boutique hotel in Sachsenhausen, Frankfurt

    Walking distance from the Main; ten minutes to the Altstadt.

  • A small hotel in Noordwijk

    Easy reach of Amsterdam without the city crowd.

  • An airport hotel near CDG

    Forty-five minutes to central Paris by RER; saves you the morning rush.

Where to eat

  • Zeughauskeller, Zürich

    Historic, generous portions, friendly to first-time visitors.

  • Anything in Grindelwald with a view of the Eiger

    Fondue done properly is hard to get wrong here.

  • Lunch under the Kölner Dom

    A long, slow plate is the right pace for that square.

  • Moules-frites near the Grand Place, Brussels

    Pick the place with the longest queue of locals.

Best viewpoints

  • Aussichtsturm Uetliberg

    Zürich laid out below, the Alps behind.

  • Mount Titlis · Cliff Walk

    Highest suspension bridge in Europe.

  • Schloss Laufen, Rheinfall

    The lower platforms get you within arm’s reach of the spray.

  • Trocadéro, Paris

    The classic first sight of the Eiffel Tower.

Transport

  • Rental car for the long leg

    Switzerland → Germany → Netherlands → Belgium → France is doable, and the autoroutes are excellent.

  • Swiss Travel Pass for the Swiss days

    Pays for itself within two days of mixed rail / boat / cable car travel.

  • RER B from CDG into central Paris

    Faster than a taxi and a fraction of the cost.

✦ Highlights ✦

The bits that stayed.

Uetliberg at golden hour

01

Uetliberg at golden hour

A first afternoon that quietly set the tone for the entire trip.

Grindelwald, in colour

02

Grindelwald, in colour

Chalets, wildflowers, and the north face of the Eiger watching over everything.

Above the clouds at Titlis

03

Above the clouds at Titlis

A rotating cable car, a glacier and a bridge above a long white nothing.

Cologne by the Rhine

04

Cologne by the Rhine

A gothic cathedral that refuses to fit inside any frame, and a slow river beside it.

The Amsterdam canal belt

05

The Amsterdam canal belt

Concentric arcs of patient water, bicycles on every bridge.

Paris at Trocadéro

06

Paris at Trocadéro

The Eiffel Tower from the place it was meant to be seen from.

Final reflection

What I carried home

Switzerland is not a country one visits so much as a country one notices. It rewards attention — to detail, to time, to the quiet engineering that makes the spectacular feel ordinary. For four days, it set the pace.

And then the rest of Europe answered, on its own terms. Germany announced itself with a cathedral and a long river. The Netherlands flattened the horizon and filled it with bicycles. Belgium gave us a single, generous afternoon. France, as ever, had the last word, and took its time about it.

I came home with fewer photographs than I imagined I would, and more questions than I left with: about pace, about precision, about how a continent can hold so many different ways of being itself within a single ten-day drive.

If a journey is measured in the things it gives you to think about — and I believe it is — then this one came back with me, all ten days of it.

~ ~ ~

— logged from a kitchen table at 2 a.m.